Climate change, that we had already felt when stopping at Jiroft: it is now way warmer and humid. We put the fridge back on, and put away the sweaters and winter suits, time to test Arty (and us too) in those spring-summer vibes!

Change also in our dress code: the city looks like Zanzibar, chadors and hijabs are lighter and colorful, and we see more shades of dark skin.

We gather information about ferries going to the nearby islands of Qeshm and Ormuz, whose geological beauties have been boasted about by many Iranians (and Lonely Planet), the first ones being Ehsan and Reza, who take us on a small tour around the city before drinking tea with Ehsan’s family .

It’s the weekend, 48 hours in front of us before the opening of the offices at the port of departure of the ferries to the UAE. There is not much to do in Bandar Abbas in the meantime, so it will be ferry to Queshm Island the same evening, from Bandar-e-Pol, some 70 km away.

Even without changing countries, we still have to undergo a fairly complete check, with inspection of Arty’s passbook. This must be linked to the status of free zone of the island that can be visited without an Iranian visa (coming from elsewhere of course). We will be alone on the ferry for big trucks for this 7 minute crossing, and our first island bivouac will be on a small beach near the island’s main town, Queshm.

The impression we had the day before when we saw the torchairs illuminating the night sky, is confirmed: the island is far from being as wild as we imagined (it must be said that it is stormed by the Iranians, especially during the holiday of Norouz, fortunately now over), and the simplicity of the traditional fishing villages that dot the island contrast heavily with these industrial sites. We will spend a quiet day in this not-so-bad of a spot, but the water is clean enough to go soak our feet and observe the tiny and innumerable hermit crabs on the small rocks.

Then it will be time for Loïc to take the passenger ferry as he got to return to Bandar-Abbas for information on shipping.

Outcome of the crossing: the 800 to 1000 $ for the trip to Dubai have been made clear, the possible dates of departure also. However, it will be necessary to wait for the reply from the companies contacted by email…

But in the meantime, we have plenty to do to keep our days busy and clear our heads, starting with other families traveling on the island: French, Romanian and Dutch, and as many vehicles and different routes. Nice, and the children are delighted to find little travelers like them and to be able to speak French.

We understand better in the light of the day why the bivouac is so appealing: beach near a traditional fishing village, and far enough away from the eyes to allow us ladies to bathe. And it’s with great pleasure that we enjoy the turquoise water without waves at 25 °C!

The discovery of the island will continue with the Mollalpagas and their cabin truck. We go back to a proper rhythm morning school / « visit of the landmarks » in the afternoon, and we share meals around the open fire (when there is not too much wind or too many mosquitoes): Chahkook canyon, impressive salt cave, boat trip on the mangrove of Hara, shipyards and their traditional fishing boats, Valley of the Stars at sunset, which strongly reminds us Cappadocia. Not to mention the small sea trips to observe the dolphins (not seen), and the vigil on the beach to observe the turtles during laying (not seen either); we will console ourselves with some dromedaries.

We will also meet the Macax, returning from Southeast Asia with their camper.

Then we all go our own separate way, to Turkmenistan for the Mollalpagas and Iran continental then Turkey for the Macax, and for us…to the beach spot where there are still 2 Romanian families, joined by a Spanish couple whose next country is Pakistan.

We discuss, we exchange, and in the meantime the quotes between Dubai and Mumbai are received, no good surprise, it would take $ 4000, without clearance fees, air tickets, hotel nights…

The extra night on the island gave us (we hope) good advice, and we start to accept little by little (but quickly enough) the idea that one of us will have to make a return trip to France to take care of the Pakistani visas. A break in the trip certainly, and for the remaining one 3 mwanas to manage, but we feel that it is worth a try.

Ferry back to Bandar Abbas in the same evening (with many other pals trucks this time), after a second attempt to see the dolphins (unsuccessful), and a fish barbecue with Marion, Franck and their children, freshly arrived on the island (we enjoyed until the end!).