We extend our stay until the end of the afternoon, before regrettably resume the road to Kerman, where a new stop by the garage is required. The tightening of the belts didn’t hold that long… Change of scenery then, after the large deserted expanses, we are back in the heart of a sluggish industrial zone. It’s all the charm of the trip!
New morning of teaching in the truck while Loïc and the mechanics are busy: changing belts, tea, draining, tea…and new encounters! We follow Amine to his brother Ramin, in alleys where the electric cables are very low, but it’s ok. The family is adorable, including the grandfather who quietly smokes his opium. It will quickly be understood that the practice is very common in this part of the country. Well…
Our hosts will then give us a small tour of the beautiful bazaar, really lively. We notice a beginning of change in facies, the skins are darker, and the clothing too (shirt with long sleeves and loose pants), typical of Pakistan and India.
After a little night in the street near Ramin’s, we head for Shah Zadeh’s garden, at the gates of Mahan. Here again, there is a big crowd, but plenty of room for children to run a bit, and enjoy the scenery, the huge trees bearing their shadows on terraced basins lined to perfection. Traditional music show, usual photo shoots with the first « Baluchi » (ethnicity of this region, straddling Iran and Pakistan), the visit is very pleasant and will continue in the streets of Mahan, with Iman, encountered the day before at the garage, as a guide.
We will just have time to arrive in Rayen (beautiful road from the main road) to visit the partially restored citadel, with on the horizon Mount Hezar (4400m), the highest peak of the region that will refuse us the pleasure of contemplating it perfectly, hidden behind clouds.
There is also a waterfall to see in the area (the guide does not mention it, but it is indicated on the signs): bivouac all found, parking at the edge of a stream, just to be sure we’re gonna be front row for the visit tomorrow.
Well, not quite front row, nor the first visitors. Time to get on the way and get out of the truck (let’s not forget our inertia), the parking lot was full. It is understandable that the site has not caught the attention of the guides: the waterfall is not very impressive, but the site is well laid out, between small bridges and picnic areas that fill little by little.
No break for us, little maneuver to get Arty in the middle of all these cars, and hop, a few hours later, here we are for the sunset near another citadel, much larger and full of history: Bam.
16 years after the earthquake that destroyed nearly 90% of the city, and a good part of the citadel, the reconstruction of this grand site is going on, and even if a good part is no longer accessible to (many) visitors, one can admire the panorama of the city and the large palm groves which gives it an air of great oasis.
No more visits in the region, it’s time to head south towards Bandar Abbas, which we will reach 2 days later, after 600 kms of road via Jiroft and a memorable traffic jam at Rudan where we will be stuck for more than 3h.
Here we are in the Persian Gulf, and closer to info on shipping to Dubai and perhaps to India.