27/02 au 01/03/19 – Immersion à Alamut

Back to the Gregorian calendar, it’s way easier!

The winding road down to the Alamut Valley is impressive, probably the one road where we had to use the brakes so often! The snowy peak of the far mountains disappears into the clouds, and on the steep sides are fields, orchards, rice paddies, and in the bottom of the valley, the ocher waters of the Shahrood River. It is still too early for the buds to hatch, but no doubt that in the spring, with the flowering fruit trees, it must be particularly pretty.

It is in the typical small town of Razmian, with its narrow streets, that we will spend two days.

The weekend will be punctuated by the very good meals cooked by Ziba (small helping hand from me, but a guest remains a guest!): breakfasts with bread, cheese, butter and jam; and for the main meals, the unavoidable, saffron rice and bread, to accompany dishes in sauce, lentils, salads, meat patties (called ‘chops’). So many preparations that require a significant time, and occupy a good part of the day of Iranian women at home. No dessert, but tea with dates and always, oranges and apples for snacks.

And in between, of course, the unmissable visits of the region! First long and disappointing expedition to see the castle of the Assassins built in the most known location, the one inf Alamut: 70 kilometers on a mountain road and with Arty, inevitably we drag a little and Alireza, not used, is not always very reassured, especially when maneuvering downhill. In the end, we arrive at the site whose steps disappear in the snow and…whose door is closed.

Too bad for the view on the valley, and especially for all the whole trip, made for not much! On the way back, we make a small detour to Lake Ovan, also quite disappointing in size and scenery, but the night and the weather, which has remained well cloudy, do not help.

Well, here it is! Second expedition (without children) the next day at Lamiasar Castle, much closer, more accessible and whose ruins are in restoration, but at least not surrounded by scaffolding. Again, no sunlight to embellish many shades of the rock, but we still appreciate the unobstructed view, and the explanations from Alireza on the history of this fortress once impregnable. We would have been tempted by one of the beautiful hiking opportunities; but let’s say that it is not really compatible with such a short stay and the family format of the weekend!

Then, following a more « traditional » pattern: women at home, and men fishing. Yes, our host is an experienced fisherman familiar with big catches, the dream for Edrian! Two hours later, mission accomplished: first fish caught in the Shahrood!

That’s it, the weekend is coming to an end, the return to Qazvin will be early enough to be on time for dinner: we are expected at Zeinab, the sister of Alireza. Once again, warmly welcomed, and we get to meet other family members: cousins, brothers, aunt-in-law, that’s a nice table! Discussions, laughs, photos with some while others pray in the middle of the living room and the children play, interesting mix and a little surprising…

And here we are again invited the next day to one of Alireza’s brothers’…but this time, impossible to say yes, we must continue our journey and leave the next day to Tehran for a ski session and calligraphy!

Une réflexion sur “27/02 au 01/03/19 – Immersion à Alamut

  1. Ping : 3 au 07/12/1397 – Téhéran acte 1 – Visas or not visas? – Les Pourquoi Pas

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