Here we are, the last month of the year of the Persian calendar, before the arrival of spring and Norouz (New Year), begins today, February 20!

More beautiful mountains on the national parallel to the highway (closed to trucks) to Rasht, that we’ll reach in the early evening. Our contact on the spot, Ali will be very caring: no problem to welcome the 5 of us in his apartment, tasting new delicious flavors with vegetables and typical of the region, and making appointments at the dentist for me. Like with Alireza, we also exchange a lot about Iranian society and its concerns, with first and foremost the inflation (accentuated by economic sanctions), the depreciation of the rial, unemployment that affects all generations… But all these daily worries do not hinder their sense of hospitality, which remains exceptional.

Health, checked ✓. Followed by the departure to the rendezvous point with Black Hand, called by some the Iranian Banski (oh, my!). If his work is not necessarily to the taste of the authorities, he will not take any risks for the one he chooses to draw on Arty (so that we can continue to travel in peace). The weather is ideal, the setting is nice (we are far from the old industrial we imagined). And there, a second checkbox checked ✓ on the red thread « evolutionary work »!

Rasht by night in the food section of the Bazaar, which adjoins the main square Shahdari. We enjoy this very pleasant atmosphere, lively and very family-centered.

But that’s it, it’s time to go our own separate ways (big emotion for Maëlia who does not understand that we do not stay longer when it’s so comfortable): Ali has things to do outside the city, and on our side we must advance to Tehran. As a result, we will not get the chance to see much more in this area known for its gastronomy, its lush green mountains and its pretty villages.

Back to Qazvin the next day, and as promised, stop at Alireza and Ziba, to whom we brought pancakes « made in the truck ». But our visit to Alamut has become uncertain and will be based on the responses we will have in Tehran on visas for Pakistan and India, the first ones being particularly touchy, as expected unfortunately.

Ready to storm the capital!