Even if the fuel is really cheap here, however, as a tourist with a large diesel engine it can be quite complicated: few stations actually provide diesel (almost all light vehicles run on gasoline or GPL), a system of cards normally reserved for nationals, which we can still use, for a fee ranging from twice to x times the price they pay themselves…

We will arrive at Qazvin later than expected after having been able to scrape together a few liters and try to park near a park. The guards, very friendly, welcome us to their booth, and offer us tea, chips, and sodas. We understand that one of them has a brother who recently made a trip to France…and here is Alireza who arrives 30 minutes later! Whereas we were planning to spend the night at the edge of a park, here we are in his home, at the other end of the city, where his wife Ziba has prepared a delicious meal. It’s not like it was past 11pm… We also meet their 3 daughters, Reihane, Nazanie and Meihrsa, and spend two good hours discussing our trip and his in France and Europe 5 years ago.

No arguing this time, no way they’re going to let us sleep in the truck. It will therefore be a very good first night in a local’s home, on single and comfortable berths on the floor covered with carpets.

An improvised day off for Alireza the next day to take care of his « very special guests »: VIP treatment!

We are given a tour in Qazvin: the first paved street of Iran, Calligraphy Museum, and on the sidelines, we have the answer to our questions about the slightly outdated portraits we see everywhere in the country: many of them are the victims of the Iran-Iraq war, which is still very much in the public mind, and other citizens who gave their lives for their country.

Then back home to share lunch with Ziba and the girls back from school. They are eager to introduce us to their city and the Alamut area that we have planned to visit anyway, and where they have a country house. We promise them to do our best to return to Qazvin after Rasht, where we are expected the same evening.